In Search Of...Mole

History, for better or worse, has left Mexico with a 'Mestizo' heritage that blends many elements of the Old and New Worlds.  No where is this more evident then in the kitchen.  The crowning achievement of this fusion is Mole.  Done right and you won't need a Dia de los Muertos celebration to come up with an excuse to partake.  But it is so complicated and so often poorly executed that the versions from which you've likely formed your opinion have tainted your expectations by not properly bringing this dish to life.

While the origins of this dish reside in legend the typical story goes like this...
16th Century nuns from the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla de los Angeles, upon learning that the Archbishop was coming for a visit, went into a panic because they had nothing to serve. The nuns started praying desperately and an angel came to inspire them. They began chopping and grinding and roasting, mixing different types of chiles together with spices, day-old bread, nuts, a little chocolate and roughly 20 other ingredients.  Several hours and many prayers later and they were blessed with a dish that is now one of the National Dishes of a country with an exceptionally proud and diverse culinary heritage.


What makes this dish so special and unique?
Have you ever tried to get too creative with a dish, added one too many ingredients, and created an edible jumble of mush with a flavor profile that appeared to be at war with one another?  Well expertly executed Mole is the beautiful melange that happens when 20 seemingly distinct and different components come together in a complex yet beautiful melody.  Ingredients can vary by region and the resulting mole sauces are as diverse as the homes that they are adapted from.  The most common inputs to the sauce are various types of nuts, seeds, chocolate, myriad chiles, cinnamon, and just about anything else that can be pulled from the spice rack.  The states of Pueba in Central Mexico and Oaxca in the South claim to be the epicenters for Mole innovation.


What spots in Phoenix give me the best opportunity to enjoy Mole?
Unfortunately our fair city does a fairly poor job of giving us a chance to sample all of the many variants of Mole.  The Red Iguana in Salt Lake City, for example, has obtained legendary status by offering a menu containing several types of this sauce.  Here in the Valley we are typically limited to a variant of Mole Poblano or Mole Negro.  Below are five restaurants that we feel do a offer the the best mole in Phoenix.

• Otro Cafe- Chef Doug Robson has done a masterful job introducing mainstream Phoenix to many regional Latin dishes and his Mole Negro is no exception.  What makes this so awesome? Try four kinds of dried chilies, raisins, almonds, onion, ginger, garlic, tomatillo, tomato, plantains, marjoram, thyme, oregano, chocolate, and more. Yes it sounds complicated and yes you will need an expert like Doug to make it work.

• Los Sombreros- Once again it takes the expertise and heritage of someone who hails from Mexico.  In this case it is Azucena Tovar and her love of showcasing dishes from the central regions, particularly her home town of San Miguel de Allende.  Here they favor the Mole Poblano and it is best showcased in their Chicken Enmoladas which are essentially enchiladas greatly enhanced by being amply soaked in this mystical sauce.

• El Conquistador- This North Phoenix staple has received Mole related accolades from publications like the New Times. Their standard chicken mole features a dark rich sauce that tastes similar to the typical Poblano.  While we favor the execution, presentation, and ambiance of the other spots, this place is a great place to grab lunch.

• Rancho de Tia Rosa- Don't let the fact that it is occasionally derided by purists as a kitschy "Gringo Friendly" spot keep you from trying the best Mole in the East Valley. While their specific sauce isn't labeled it comes across as slightly sweeter then most available in Phoenix. 

• Barrio Queen- It would be nigh impossible to mention Mexican and Phoenix in an article without giving Chef Silvana her much deserved due. Her menu reads like a well researched piece for Conde Nast, allowing you to savor the true essence of Mexico that is often overlooked as we haphazardly go out in search of the nearest Senor Frog.  Her mole hails from down south in Oaxca and Barrio is the only act in town, to our knowledge, that serves it with the more spicy red sauce.  

Does Phoenix have a ways to go before it can adequately showcase all of the famed 7 moles of Oaxaca? We'd say yes.  But that doesn't mean that we don't already have several notable establishments, see above, that are doing a great job of helping us enjoy the tip of this incredibly tasty iceburg.  Mole is a gift to the world and Phoenix certainly has several places from which it can be enjoyed.