Tortilla Fish

The fish taco torch has been officially passed from Rubios.  Tough to find better seafood at this price.  Fresh and flavorful fish that can be dressed a variety of ways as well as a few other solid earth bound options.  Also, a friendly staff that works hard to ensure your experience is up to par.

The 'Must Try'- Get a standard fish taco and a machaca style fish taco

The Yard

They do a pretty good job "manufacturing" fun for those who typically don't have the ambition or wherewithal to generate some on their own.  Good restaurants and a safe bet to hold your next office party.  Also, the parking/valet situation is a mess.


The 'Must Try'- All the favorites from Culinary Dropout and Barrio Urbano but we recommend something shareable like the soft pretzels.

Cafe Rio

Utah's culinary contribution to the world which means something overly sweet, cheap, and served in large portions.  A more tasty and less heralded lunch alternative to Chipotle.


The 'Must Try'- Sweet Pork Salad

Los Cerritos

Slightly smaller menu then the local "betos" type spot that you find in every town but with items that are about a half star above those offerings.  The kind of place you frequent after a night out with the guys.

The 'Must Try'- The Carne Asada fries are pretty novel

El Conquistador

Greeted by some of the better chips and salsa in the area and followed up with a  menu of solidly executed classics.  One tip though, Mole is only served on Tuesdays and Weekends They also do some great things with pork and green sauce.



The 'Must Try'- Make the effort for the Mole 

In Search Of...Mole

History, for better or worse, has left Mexico with a 'Mestizo' heritage that blends many elements of the Old and New Worlds.  No where is this more evident then in the kitchen.  The crowning achievement of this fusion is Mole.  Done right and you won't need a Dia de los Muertos celebration to come up with an excuse to partake.  But it is so complicated and so often poorly executed that the versions from which you've likely formed your opinion have tainted your expectations by not properly bringing this dish to life.

While the origins of this dish reside in legend the typical story goes like this...
16th Century nuns from the Convent of Santa Rosa in Puebla de los Angeles, upon learning that the Archbishop was coming for a visit, went into a panic because they had nothing to serve. The nuns started praying desperately and an angel came to inspire them. They began chopping and grinding and roasting, mixing different types of chiles together with spices, day-old bread, nuts, a little chocolate and roughly 20 other ingredients.  Several hours and many prayers later and they were blessed with a dish that is now one of the National Dishes of a country with an exceptionally proud and diverse culinary heritage.


What makes this dish so special and unique?
Have you ever tried to get too creative with a dish, added one too many ingredients, and created an edible jumble of mush with a flavor profile that appeared to be at war with one another?  Well expertly executed Mole is the beautiful melange that happens when 20 seemingly distinct and different components come together in a complex yet beautiful melody.  Ingredients can vary by region and the resulting mole sauces are as diverse as the homes that they are adapted from.  The most common inputs to the sauce are various types of nuts, seeds, chocolate, myriad chiles, cinnamon, and just about anything else that can be pulled from the spice rack.  The states of Pueba in Central Mexico and Oaxca in the South claim to be the epicenters for Mole innovation.


What spots in Phoenix give me the best opportunity to enjoy Mole?
Unfortunately our fair city does a fairly poor job of giving us a chance to sample all of the many variants of Mole.  The Red Iguana in Salt Lake City, for example, has obtained legendary status by offering a menu containing several types of this sauce.  Here in the Valley we are typically limited to a variant of Mole Poblano or Mole Negro.  Below are five restaurants that we feel do a offer the the best mole in Phoenix.

• Otro Cafe- Chef Doug Robson has done a masterful job introducing mainstream Phoenix to many regional Latin dishes and his Mole Negro is no exception.  What makes this so awesome? Try four kinds of dried chilies, raisins, almonds, onion, ginger, garlic, tomatillo, tomato, plantains, marjoram, thyme, oregano, chocolate, and more. Yes it sounds complicated and yes you will need an expert like Doug to make it work.

• Los Sombreros- Once again it takes the expertise and heritage of someone who hails from Mexico.  In this case it is Azucena Tovar and her love of showcasing dishes from the central regions, particularly her home town of San Miguel de Allende.  Here they favor the Mole Poblano and it is best showcased in their Chicken Enmoladas which are essentially enchiladas greatly enhanced by being amply soaked in this mystical sauce.

• El Conquistador- This North Phoenix staple has received Mole related accolades from publications like the New Times. Their standard chicken mole features a dark rich sauce that tastes similar to the typical Poblano.  While we favor the execution, presentation, and ambiance of the other spots, this place is a great place to grab lunch.

• Rancho de Tia Rosa- Don't let the fact that it is occasionally derided by purists as a kitschy "Gringo Friendly" spot keep you from trying the best Mole in the East Valley. While their specific sauce isn't labeled it comes across as slightly sweeter then most available in Phoenix. 

• Barrio Queen- It would be nigh impossible to mention Mexican and Phoenix in an article without giving Chef Silvana her much deserved due. Her menu reads like a well researched piece for Conde Nast, allowing you to savor the true essence of Mexico that is often overlooked as we haphazardly go out in search of the nearest Senor Frog.  Her mole hails from down south in Oaxca and Barrio is the only act in town, to our knowledge, that serves it with the more spicy red sauce.  

Does Phoenix have a ways to go before it can adequately showcase all of the famed 7 moles of Oaxaca? We'd say yes.  But that doesn't mean that we don't already have several notable establishments, see above, that are doing a great job of helping us enjoy the tip of this incredibly tasty iceburg.  Mole is a gift to the world and Phoenix certainly has several places from which it can be enjoyed.

Joyride Tacos

The hipsters at Upward Projects have stolen Nana's old family recipes, awesomely re-purposed another Phoenix building, and given us another reason to head up Central Ave for a Friday happy hour.

The 'Must Try'- Pick a Plate of Tacos

Canyon Cafe

The former Sam's Cafe was one of the first places in town to introduce the tasty melodies that can be produced when you blend Spanish, Southwestern, and Mexican culinary traditions. Still worth the wait should you be down town.

The 'Must Try'- The Salmon Flauta

Blue Agave Mexican Cantina

More sports bar than authentic Mexican experience.  But in an area not especially proficient in 'South of the Border' the Agave is a great option for those wanting to catch a game and grind tacos.

The 'Must Try'- The Baja Shrimp Enchiladas

Diego Pops

This eclectic and gussied up taco stand does just enough to distract your attention from the famed Barrio Queen around the block. While not as authentic it offers a more gringo flavored menu full of flavor.  A particular nod to their various salsas.

The 'Must Try'- The Brussels Sprout Nachos

Castillon Family Mexican Restaurant

 

The menu might look familiar but the experience is a step above your typical and traditional Mexican.  Taking the best from their New Mexican and adding some new wrinkles, Castillon's will quickly become your go to lunch spot when you get the craving to go 'south of the border'.

The 'Must Try'-  The absolutely tasty and innovative chorizo filled Rellenos

Paquime- Street Food of Mexico

The desserts are top notch but don't let their sweet siren songs completely distract you from some incredible tacos and tortas.   This place maintains its authenticity while creating an atmosphere that would rival anything put out by Fox or Upward Projects.

The 'Must Try'- The Ribeye Tacos

Tortas El Guero

Los Reyes gets all the Torta attention but El Guero is every bit as good with a slight edge for ambiance, service, and horchata. A few visits here and you will never consider a Subway sandwich again.

The 'Must Try'-We prefer the Cubana

Los Reyes De La Torta

 The heavy weight of the heavy sandwich. The place responsible for introducing Phoenix to the meaty and complex splendor that is the Mexican torta.  Uncinch the belt, this sandwich will be with you for awhile.

The 'Must Try'- The Del Rey Torta

Juan Jaime's Tacos and Tequila

Your taco options are limited in North Scottsdale but Juan Jaime's does the best job for those of us in need of a lunch time fix. The place might be better served as a fast casual concept but the service good and the salsa bar provides some nice color to the taco standards.

The 'Must Try'- Pick a trio of tacos.  They are all solid.

Fogon - A Mexican Eatery

Solid ambiance with the beginnings of a good menu but the execution still needs polish and we wish the menu would dive deeper into the heart of Mexico.  Work to be done before it can compete with Barrio or even the Blanco down the street.

The 'Must Try'- The fajita

Phoenix's Beautiful Mexican Melange

The once staid and homogeneous world of Mexican food that we once knew, think bean and cheese burritos, has been replaced with a vibrant tapestry that represents the true diversity of a country full of distinct regions and tastes.  Arizona's proximity to our great neighbor makes Phoenix one of the nation's top starting points to explore this colorful world.

This entry will help you navigate this world and will reveal that there are a myriad of tasty options for those willing to look beyond the crispy shell of the chimichanga.


The Sonoran Staples
Given that the State of Sonora is our neighbor to the south their cuisine will be a natural launching point.  This also makes sense as this is the style of Mexican that we are most familiar with.   To Phoenix graybeards there are a few names that stand out- Mata's in the East Valley, La Perla in the West Valley, Carolina's downtown, and the TeePee in East Phoenix. Think enchiladas, burros, deep fried tacos...all familiar combinations on the Mexican menu that we grew up with.

Barrio Cafe

Tacolandia
Like the humble burger before it, the venerable taco is the latest street food to move upstream to the more expensive "gourmet" territory.  There have been multiple offerings that have popped up lately; we will help you discern between the legitimate options and the "johnny come lately's" who are just looking to capitalize on a trend and an excuse to charge you $5 for a taco.

First, turn to our patron saint of Mexican food, Silvana Esparza, and her latest creation the Barrio Queen.  Her tacos span the length and breadth of Mexico and are the best of breed when it comes to the higher price point.  The Mission and Milagro Grill also specialize in the higher end taco but they don't have the execution and pedigree of Barrio. The Taco Guild has servicable tacos but their flavor is overshadowed by the absolutely cool location.

Tacos Atoyac

There are no shortage of options once you move down stream.  Tacos Atoyac is the undisputed king of the cheap taco.  Go there for their fish taco, best in the city.  La Santissima has great tacos and the most impressive salsa bar in town.  America's Tacos lays claim to the best carne asada in Phoenix.  We'll let you be the judge. We think that the asada at Backyard Taco in Mesa is equally good.

Heart of True Mexico
Let's head inland and explore the options that give Mexico its reputation as a foodie mecca.  These are the flavors from Puebla, Guanajuato, and Oaxca that most Gringo palates overlook or miss completely. They are the essence of real Mexico and they are fast winning a spot on top of the culinary world.

El Gallo Blanco

It was the great and aforementioned Chef Esparza who first brought this brand of Mexican to our Valley through the famed Barrio Cafe.  Her cochinta pibil will have you wondering if you weren't accidentally transported to Merida.  Not to be outdone, the neighboring Asi Es La Vida offers similar dishes and an intimate atmosphere that is often accented with some great live music. Los Sombreros in Scottsdale will give you the opportunity to sample the love and cuisine of San Miguel de Allende and other spots in Central Mexico.

If you have the sensibilities of a chilango and want something with the flavors of the capitol we recommend Distrito or Gallo Blanco.   Both are lead by impressive names, Jose Garces and Doug Robson respectively.  Each has a menu full of dishes from this vibrant region.

Deseo

Beach Fare
Let's take a brief moment to imagine the sandy shore and the smell of the salty sea.  In Mexico that means fish tacos and ceviche.  Mariscos Ensenada offers incredible options out of its nondescript 16th Street location.  While not typical of the ceviche you'll find seaside, the upscale offerings at Deseo make for a wonderful Mexican inspired exploration of the bounties of the ocean.




The Burly Burrito and the Tasty Torta

Tortas El Guero

Listen reader, put the Chipotle down and take a journey with us to a few spots that stuff their tortillas and bread with far better vittles. Revo Burrito over in the Biltmore area not only has the best $7 options but you also get arguably the best creamy rice in town. The bombero burrito at Los Taquitos is an Ahwatukee institution.  Their menu is so legit that you swear you can almost smell the exhaust of the bocho cabs out in the parking lot.

Don't think sandwiches when you are fielding an appetite for Mexican? Think again.  The recently discovered torta plays a prominent role here in Phoenix.  Los Reyes De La Torta receives the most praise and rightfully so, but the less heralded Tortas El Guero makes a cubano that is just as messy, tasty, and filling.  Sure the milaneza, avocados, or cheese attract the attention but it is the magically light bread that provides any Mexican sandwich with a distinct and wonderful flavor.


The Border Crossers

El Rancho De Tia Rosa

Yes most of the Mexican food that reaches our plate is a bastardized version that has been altered to fit our tastes. But not all of this is to be shunned as there are some great innovations that take place once this cuisine hits our more moderate climes.

El Rancho de Tia Rosa in Mesa does a great job of taking dishes like mole and making them more accessible to the Gringo taste buds.  Their salmon tacos, while a tad sweet, make for a great way to get your Omega 3's.   Abuelo's provides an upscale corporate take on most classic dishes.  They are safe and somewhat heavy but that doesn't mean they aren't worth trying.  Macayo's is a long-standing Phoenix classic that claims ownership over the symbol of Americanized Mexican, the chimichanga.  There are no shortage of  restaurants in this vein around town.  They are a stone's throw from your nearest strip mall and they make for a comfortable and pleasant Saturday night date.

What happens when you cross a Mexican with a ...
Let's spend a brief moment to appreciate the sweet tastes that can result when you fuse two distinct and disparate cultures.  Phoenix has a few places that really give Mexican a passport to exotic new flavors.

Sumo Maya

The first is Sumo Maya.  This is a recent entry with a menu from the genius of Herb Wilson. Picture a kitchen that contains a wood fired oven, several woks, and a Spanish plancha grill.  Kick back and enjoy the places that those tools in these capable hands can take you. Chino Bandido doesn't have glitz or the price tag of its Scottsdale cousin but it does offer plenty hearty bowls that bring the best of China and Mexico together.

They say that you can really capture the essence of a culture by what the good folks eat on the street.  In Phoenix our streets are the perfect showcase for the most popular Mexican-American love child since Fernando Valenzuela, the Sonoran Dog.  The bacon, guacamole, and soft pillowy bun embarrass even the best frankfurter options of Chicago or New York. The best place in Phoenix is on 20th Street and Indian School at Nogales Hot Dogs.

New Mexican Mexican

Nogales Hot Dogs

We can't get this far into the conversation without recognizing the contributions of our dear friends to the East, New Mexico. Most people don't think past the Hatch Chile, although that is enough to satisfy most appetites.   In Phoenix there is a trio of restaurants that have a long standing tradition in making us remember that New Mexico is more then just Bolo Ties and Santa Fe.  Richardson's is the most formal of the bunch.  Their carne adovada is art and easily makes up for their sometimes prickly service and policies.  If you want real heat you'll want to head down the street to Los Dos Molinos. You will leave satisfied and with several thousand fewer taste buds.  Finally, Frank and Lupes offers the usual standards plus some amazing sopapillas and all in the comfortable surroundings of Old town Scottsdale.



Conclusion
We could go on but we feel like the length of this article belies the focus of this blog which is brevity.  The truth of the matter is that Phoenix has no shortage of world class spots from which you can enjoy the many colors of Mexico, Old and New.  If only we had this many quality spots for Chinese food. Your favorite spot not mentioned?  Shoot us an e-mail and let us know.